Dudhsagar Waterfalls: Breathtakingly Beautiful

Guide to Dudhsagar- The Railway tracks!!!

Hello guys!!!

Firstly I would like to quote a few things to the readers:

• This is more of an informative blog rather than a travel diary.
• The difficulty level of this trek is easy to medium.
• This trek is a Rail fan's paradise.

UPDATE: 

This trek has been officially banned by the Indian Railways and anyone undertaking it would be Fined and/or Imprisoned if caught. Also the R.P.F.(Railway Protection Force) policemen would be present in each coach from Castle Rock to Kulem and won't allow the passengers to get down at Dudhsagar Station. R.P.F. policemen are deployed in large numbers at Londa, Castle Rock, Dudhsagar and Kulem Stations who would stop you at these respective stations from starting your treks. The only way to witness the falls is through moving trains(in the monsoon). In other seasons, you can visit the falls through jeeps.

This has happened because some people at the Dudhsagar Railway Station started pelting stones on a train because they couldn't board it.

Nature's Beauty denied to man because of his own misdeeds.

And here it goes...

A tiny piece of Geography:

Dudhsagar is the fifth largest waterfall in India. It lies on the Karnataka-Goa border, precisely in Goa. It lies on the Londa-Madgaon railway route.

How to get there:

There are three routes to reach Dudhsagar:

• Castle Rock - Dudhsagar: Railway Track Trek (14 kms)
• Kulem - Dudhsagar Trek: Railway Track Trek(12 kms)
• Jeep Route (From Kulem, which according to me is quite boring)

If you are planning to visit Dudhsagar Falls by trekking on the railway tracks, make sure that you and your fellow trekkers have the stamina to do so, because the trek gets quite hectic after 10 kms and you run out of energy.

We were a group of five (3 guys and 2 girls) from Mumbai who decided to visit Dudhsagar Falls by trekking 14 kms from Castle Rock Railway Station on 18th July, 2014 during the peak monsoon. I think this blog would be of a greater use to those who are travelling from Pune or Mumbai and especially for those who have female companions in their group, but I have tried to include almost all the information that I came across while visiting this place to make this blog helpful to everyone.

Our Itinerary was as follows:

Dates- 17th, 18th and 19th of July 2014

• Meet at 8.30 a.m. at Thane Station PF#5
• Board Koyna Express: 9.13 a.m.
• Pune arrival : 12.40 p.m.
• Have lunch near Pune station and be back by 4 p.m.
• Board Goa express which arrives at 4.20 p.m.
• Departure at 4.35 p.m.
• Arrival at Castle Rock: 3 a.m.
• Wait at the station, freshen up and get ready by 6.30 a.m.
• Start trekking towards Dudhsagar at 7 a.m. 
• Reach Caranzol by 10 a.m. 
• Take a break of half an hour.
• Start the trek again at 10.30 a.m.
• Reach Dudhsagar Falls before 1 p.m.
• At 2 p.m. start trekking towards Kulem, to the Dudhsagar view point (However, we couldn't make it to the view point due to paucity of time)
• Reach Dudhsagar Station back before 4.30 p.m. at any cost.
• Board the Goa Express at 5 p.m. at Dudhsagar [dds] Stn (not Dudhsagar Falls Stn [dwf] )
• Arrival at Pune: 4 a.m.
• Have some tea and breakfast at Pune Stn and be back to the station before 5.30 a.m.
• Board Sinhagad Express which departs at 6.05 a.m.
• Arrive at Dadar: 9.33 a.m.

None of us had any trekking experiences, all of us were first timers.

We had our tickets booked a month in advance. I would strongly recommend you guys to visit this place only if you have your seats reserved. Otherwise it is quite an unpleasant journey throughout to travel without reservation.

Pune:

Pune has 3 waiting rooms, an Upper Class waiting room, a sleeper class waiting room and a ladies waiting room on Platform no. 1.The sleeper class waiting room was very clean and the toilets too were well maintained.The waiting room has ample charging points. We boarded the Goa Express from Pune Railway Station which was about half an hour late.

The 12780 Goa Express arriving at Pune Stn Platform #3

Navigating a Curve

The Goa Express arrived at Castle Rock Railway Station at 3.00 a.m. on time.

Castle Rock Railway Station:

Castle Rock is the most scenic station I have ever seen in my life. One of the highlights of this trek is witnessing the Castle Rock Railway Station at 3.00 in the morning.You can see one part of the train on the platform while the other part disappearing in fog.

Goa Express at CLR Stn(One part dissappearing in fog)

Fog cleared up in no time.

Castle Rock railway station has a common waiting room, with a single toilet in a tolerable state. This room had charging points but none of them were working while we were present there. This waiting room is under CCTV surveillance.

The Waiting Room Signboard

Even if the waiting room is full, there are enough benches on the station to rest. It has a superb roof which prevents the rain water from entering the station.

Very well-maintained: Castle Rock Station

Castle Rock Station Board at 4 a.m.







Our Backpacks Resting on one of the many benches

Tea and some other food items are available at Castle Rock after 7 a.m but are very limited. The rain pattern in this part of the country is very interesting. It rains for about 15 mins, and then there is fog for some time and the cycle goes on. We also invented a theory that if there is fog, it wouldn't rain, and if the fog disappears, it would rain surely. Trust me guys, this theory helps a lot.

If you are trekking with female companions, here are some tips:

1. Do make sure that you have a medium to big sized group(At least five members)
2. Ask the female members if they would be ready to walk such longer distance as it is quite a long and tiring trek
3. Take extra care of the female members at the falls as there would be some people boozing closer to the falls (as we noticed) but don't feel worried as this point doesn't matter much once you get there (just a precaution)
4. There are no changing rooms or toilets at the falls (at least in the rainy season as we noticed) and hence the female members have to change their clothes in the train toilets (while returning from the falls)

NOTE: I am not being a sexist. This is a genuine concern based on the experience of our visit.

One more option would be to trek from Caranzol to Dudhsagar but in my opinion, the most scenic and the best part of the trek lies between Castle Rock and Caranzol. Hence its up to you to decide whether you are ready to trek a longer distance to witness some of the best sceneries. 

If you want to hitch a ride on  loco or a train, please do it from Castle Rock itself as it is difficult to stop a loco on the way. Almost every driver from Castle Rock would allow you to get on his loco but use the word 'please' umpteen times while requesting and don't forget to thank them profusely, since it is the least that you can do. Please don't try to bribe them. I would advice you to travel light. Walking with a heavy backpack tends to be quite tiring. One more thing which we noticed was that, we people just had 1 litre of water altogether during the entire trek. Hence 1 litre of water for each person would be more than enough. This tip is applicable only in the rainy season and I would recommend at least 3 litres of water per person in other seasons.

If you are thinking of halting at Caranzol, here are some facts:

1. Caranzol is a very small station which does not have any platform to rest. 
2. It does not have any roof for taking shelter either.
3. The 12780 Goa Express halts at Caranzol (100% sure)

The Caranzol Stn

The most important part of trekking in the rainy season are leeches. Carrying salt is very helpful. Carry atleast half a kg of salt and pack it in a plastic bag. 

We encountered three leaches on three of us at the same time. Always check your legs at short intervals for leeches. Make sure you wear full pants (unlike us).

You can't feel a leech stuck on you. The only way to notice is by the naked eye. Don't panic if one is stuck on you.

Take some salt in your hand, put it on the leech. It will automatically leave you. Apply a band-aid on the wound because applying any cream would be a waste as it would be washed down in the rains.

You can see a leech on my left leg (I realised it after an hour)

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Carry dry towels for cameras and pack them in plastic covers so to keep them dry. If you are carrying a DSLR, wrap it with shower caps/plastic sheets/covers and use rubber bands to secure it. Carry umbrellas, wind cheaters and cover your backpacks with a cover. Carry a plastic cover for each electronic item. One torch for each member is mandatory.
If you think of wearing sports shoes, I would advice against it as the rain water will make them heavy, wear sandals instead. Deploy one member in the front end and one member at the tail end while walking on tracks to keep an eye on trains.
Carry whistles as they are quite handy and helpful in emergencies (as we did). You need not worry a lot about the trains as you can hear the sound from quite a distance and the engine drivers at polite enough and blow horns almost all the time as they know people are walking on the tracks. Also, the trains are quite slow in this section and hence it gives us ample time to get off the tracks. Make sure you find a proper place at the side and at a safe distance from the track when a train approaches. 
Before walking inside a tunnel or on a bridge, wait for a while (10 seconds) so as to ensure that no train is approaching. Walk at higher speeds inside the tunnels and also on the bridges. I have noticed that there is enough space for one to duck even if a train approaches while you are inside a tunnel, but there is a higher risk of leeches and you becoming deaf inside a tunnel due to the loud sound of the train which reverberates inside the tunnel. Hence it would be a little risky to be inside a tunnel while a train is approaching, solely because of the insects and not because of the trains. Thankfully we didn't encounter a train while we were inside a tunnel or on a bridge. The tracks on the bridges have metal sheets on which it is safer and easier to walk. We encountered one passenger train (AMARAVATI EXPRESS going towards Howrah) and 7 to 8 goods train on the entire trek.

The Howrah bound Amaravati Express at Tunnel No. 3

We started our trek at 7 a.m. and reached the Dudhsagar Falls by 2 p.m. It normally takes 6 hours if you walk at a normal speed but it took us an hour extra as we took a lot of pics on the way. So while planning, make sure you allot a minimum of 7 hours for the trek in your timeline.


When we started our trek, it started raining heavily and there was a bit of disappointment on each one's face. Not because of walking in the rain, but for not being able to click pictures :P The first tunnel is at quite a distance from Castle Rock Station.

The prettier one!!!

It was before tunnel no. 2 and just after crossing the 1st tunnel that the encounter with the leech had begun. Thanks to Tata Namak that we could bid good-bye to the leeches without much of a struggle.

We reached  tunnel #2 shortly after crossing the first tunnel. This is the longest tunnel on the entire stretch and resembles the entrance of a church. This tunnel is a bit curved and hence you surely will require a torch to navigate through. It took us around 10 minutes to cross this tunnel and the experience was thrilling but scary at the same time. It is really an adrenaline pumping experience to cross such a long tunnel.

My advice would be to put on the hood of your wind-cheater/raincoats while entering the tunnel because there is a possibility that the leeches and other insects from the top of the tunnel may fall on your head. This is just a precaution to be taken and we didn't experience any such incident though.

That's a train!!!

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Tunnel #2 with a message

After crossing tunnel #3, we found the waterfalls inside a room-like structure. This sight was quite amazing and the sound of the water falling was also quite pleasant to hear.

Waterfalls inside a room-like structure

And the bottom half

After walking for about five and a half kilometers, we reached the Karnataka-Goa border and entered the state of Goa by a board welcoming us to our left. Do not forget to click a photo near this board, as it would be an official proof of you visiting Goa :P

Nearing Caranzol

• After taking many pics and walking at a slow pace, we reached the Caranzol Station at 10.30am, half an hour behind our schedule. We thought of boarding a goods or a loco from here but the station staff wasn't sure whether a train would arrive in the next couple of hours. So we continued on our trek and didn't take a break as we needed to catch up on the lost time.

Half-way through!!!

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A mark showing the distance we've trekked so far

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The tiny shelter. Restricted for common people

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I have read in many blogs that walking on railway tracks is quite a difficult task but going by my experience in doing so, i would beg to differ. After walking for about half a kilometer, you start to catch the correct rhythm and start walking comfortably on the tracks. The major obstacles are the human wastes which make you feel yuck! A major chunk of these faeces would be washed away by the rains(thanks to Mother Nature) but unfortunately, some are still present on the tracks(as we noticed). So keep an eye on the tracks while walking.

Enroute!!!

That's just the fog and not rain!!!

More Fog!!!

All clear (Rear-View)!!!

After tunnel no.6, lies one of the most scenic rail section - The Viaduct and the tunnel combination.

 We were  mesmerized by the sight which we just witnessed. A tunnel was drilled through a huge rock of mountain and a bridge was built just at the exit.

  

"And my love for Indian Railways Quadrupled!!!"

•  Just after we reached the end of the bridge, it started to rain heavily and we got to see multiple waterfalls from this huge mountainous rock.Lucky us!!!
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  Marvelous Engineering!!!

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  Aaaaaaaaaaandddd it rains!!!

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  Total transformation

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• After crossing four more tunnels, we witnessed the single lined track developing into a double-line. Hence an indication that we were nearing the Dudhsagar Railway Station. By this time, four out of the five of us started feeling tired. It became quite hectic for us because of the heavy backpacks. We took our first break just before the Dudhsagar Station. We had biscuits and some cornflakes which we had bought. My advice would be to wait here(the place where we rested) rather than waiting at the Dudhsagar Station as this place is not crowded and you can rest on the platform like structure(No roof here too). This place is just after the 10th tunnel.
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  Our Resting Place

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• After taking a short break of 20 mins, we proceeded  towards our destination. We reached the Dudhsagar Railway Station at 1.40 p.m. Whilst walking on the tracks near the station, we spotted a railway employee with his walkie, working on the line. I rushed towards him to ask about our coach position as it is this station where the train taking us back to Pune would arrive. He generously gave us the valuable information which was quite helpful. These people are really humble and friendly. I even asked him whether they trek the whole distance everyday(I know quite a silly question)to which he replied that they take a goods train or a loco which passes through this stretch and return back in the same. I also asked about his place of residence and got to know that he stays at Londa. 
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  Dudhsagar Railway Station Board

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• A few steps away from the Dudhsagar Station lies the ancient station built by the Portuguese which was called 'Dudh Sagur"
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  Dudh Sagur Station

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        Just after this station, lies the last and the final tunnel before the very alluring yet mighty powerful Dudhsagar Falls. We were eager to complete this stretch and witness the falls and wanted to know the reason for all the hype which people have created where they say all this trek is worthwhile. Tunnel no 11 was traversed quickly and we got closer the Dudhsagar Waterfalls Railway Station.

First Glimpse!!!

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       This was the first view of the falls which we witnessed when we neared the Dudhsagar Waterfalls Station. Every one who hears about this place feels that it is very over-hyped and what would be so special about it. You really need to be there to witness it during the monsoon to know the reason for its hype.

The Dudhsagar Waterfalls Station Board

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After crossing this station, lies the Dudhsagar Falls:

'The Nature's priceless gift to humans'

The falls are very much stronger and would pull you in if you try to venture even closer. Hence make a note to view the falls only from the railway bridge and never ever try to go beneath or closer. It is indeed very safe at the railway bridge, if you are worried about that. The falls are at quite a distance, hence even during heavy rainfall, it is quite safe here.

Dudhsagar!!!!

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The bottom half!!!

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We reached the falls at 2 p.m. After viewing it for around 20 mins, we went to the shelter built near the falls and walked to the upper part. This place was quite untidy and conquered by the monkeys and hence we felt creepy to even stand here leave alone resting. If you bring your sleeping bags or tents, you can try to rest at this place as it is the only place which protects you in rains. There is a canteen at the bottom part of this shelter where you get tea, wafers and some light snacks. We were quite hungry by this time but couldn't have our food. All thanks to those monkeys. We decided to leave this place and go back to the railway bridge, witness the falls for some more time and start our journey back to the Dudhsagar Station. 

The not so clean shelter. You can see the canteen at the bottom

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We decided to have our biscuits on our way to the bridge to save them from the monkeys. We were having our food as if we had stolen it, dodging the biscuit packet away from the view of the apes. It was quite funny though.
We were seated on the tracks itself on the railway bridge and viewing mother nature in her best form. All of us were mesmerized and were viewing the falls for almost an hour. This was one of the best moments in our trek, being seated on the tracks at the falls. A double engine passed through the bridge and we stood up and waited at the side and it disappeared into the tunnel.

The double-headed loco passing through the bridge. Not quite clear as moving away from the tracks was my first priority.

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At about 3.45 p.m., we decided to bid adieu to this place and walk back and started our journey back to the station. Once again we went through tunnel #11 and this time with a single torch, as we had packed the other torches inside our backpacks at Dudhsagar falls. This was quite an amazing feeling and I loved this part a lot (especially). We reached the Dudhsagar Station at about 4.10 p.m. but thought that it would be crowded as most people come here to take the Goa Express back. So we decided to wait at the Mother Mary Church which was close to the station. The Goa Express was scheduled to arrive at 5 p.m. The church was pretty clean and it was pleasant waiting here.
At 5 p.m., we started hearing the honks of a train and hence decided to go to the station as Goa Express would be in the ghats and arriving soon. We reached the station at 5.15 p.m. where some people were waiting for the train near the reserved coaches position and a huge crowd had gathered near the unreserved coach position.
 The Goa Express arrived at 5.30 p.m. and we boarded the train without much struggle. If you are visiting this place on weekdays, i would say that is not at all an issue to board this train at the Dudhsagar Station where it halts for 2 minutes(as we noticed). This time is enough for a group of about 10 people to safely board the train from a single entrance. 
(I am elaborating on this part as I myself was a bit worried whether we would be able to board the train at Dudhsagar Station within such a short interval and hence i wanted to correct this misconception, but please note this is only on weekdays)

Our train waited at Londa junction for about an hour and half as the slip coaches that arrive were late and as a result, our train was delayed by 2hrs at Londa. Surprisingly, it reached Pune bang on time. Once again Indian Railways at its best.

Back to Pune. 

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One thing which we noticed was that the toilets in train no. 12780 are filthy but the ones in 12779 were clean. The reason behind this would be that 12780 comes from Hazrat Nizamuddin and travels quite a distance before reaching Pune. Hence it is understandable that the passengers make them untidy but that's  not the same case with 12779.

If you don't want to trek, you can get down at Dudhsagar Station by the Goa express(12780) which surely(100%) halts at Dudhsagar Station and rest at the church which is at a 5 mins distance from Dudhsagar Station, towards tunnel no. 11.
It would be dark at the time Goa express arrives at Dudhsagar Station (precisely 3.50 a.m.). Hence my advice would be to stay at the door after Castle Rock Station and count the no of tunnels. Count the small tunnels too. Dudhsagar Station is exactly after the 10th tunnel. Make sure you use a torch while getting down as there is no platform and it would be dark.

Dudhsagar(dds) is the station where one would reach first while trekking from Castle Rock or Caranzol. It is this station where the trains stop. Don't get confused between Dudhsagar Waterfalls(dwf) Station and Dudhsagar Station. Not a single train stops at dwf stn. Dwf station is the place where the waterfall lies. Close to the railway bridge, there is ample space to fix 6 to 8 tents.

For Hitch-Riding the locos
On your way, the locos carrying goods wont stop for you and hence don't try. If you find just locos without wagons, try stopping them as they will halt because the drivers are generous enough.

The linemen and the railways staff who would be working on the tracks are very polite and helpful. The one's having walkies with them would be the staff. Don't shy away from enquiring about the train from them.

While returning from dds

Dudhsagar Station doesn't have a roof and neither a place to comfortably wait especially in rains. There is a small church near Dudhsagar Station with roof where you can wait before the train arrives. Please don't litter this place.

While we boarded the 12779 Goa Express, the coach positions were as follows:
 Engine-Unreserved-S12 to S4 (Vasco-Hazrat Nizammudin)-Pantry-AC AND SLIP COACHES TO Bangalore AT THE END 

Get into any coach and walk through the train to reach your reserved coach.
You can change you clothes inside the train toilets (as we did). 
The same train also halts at Caranzol Station (100% sure, we noticed)

In closing, I would like everyone in their 20's and 30's to give a visit to this place at least once. It is a lifetime opportunity which you can't afford to miss. Plan your visit, pack up your backpacks, enjoy the journey and tick it off your bucket list.

"It's always the journey that matters more than the destination..."

HAVE A SAFE TRIP GUYS!!! :-)

PS: Heart Felt Thanks to Vidya for making this trip happen. It was solely because you that I got a chance to visit this place to which i was madly addicted.
Thank you Ruchira for coming just because I insisted.
Sachin and Hardik, dhanyavaad bhaailog for making this trip a grand success.
Thank you Hardik ki mummy for the yummy theplas(50.nos to be specific)which hepled us forget hunger completely. In the end, thank you amma for letting me go!!


Frequently Asked Questions?

1) Do trains halt at Dudhsagar Station in both directions?
Ans: All trains going towards Kulem halt at Dudhsagar Station for a minute, be it a passenger train or a goods train.
However, while going towards Castle Rock only two trains halt here. They are
1. 18048 Amaravati Express
2. 12779 Goa Express
None of the other trains halt here while going towards Castle Rock.

2) Trekking on the Railway Track for 15 Kms? Can i do it?
Ans: Yes you can, but with some determination. After you complete the trek, there would be a sense of satisfaction and it is worth it.

3) Can I have a bath/swim near the falls?
Ans: In Rainy season, a big NOOOOOOOO.
It would be a suicide to do so as the falls are mighty powerful in rains.
In other seasons, 
Yes.
But with proper precaution and safety.

4) Does Dudhsagar Station have a Ticketing Window/Centre to book an unreserved ticket?
Ans: NO.
There is no provision to buy tickets at Dudhsagar Station and hence you must procure a return ticket at Kulem or Castle Rock itself.

5) Is the trek safe?
Ans: Yes.
But always keep an eye on the tracks for a train, mainly before clicking photographs and selfies.

6) I am planning a trek on a weekend. Will i be able to board the Goa Express at Dudhsagar Station in the evening?
Ans: As we travelled on a weekday, we found it quite easy to board the train at Dudhsagar Stn.
But I have read in many blogs that it becomes quite difficult to board the train on weekends at Dudhsagar. Hence an alternative would be to board at Sonalium or Caranzol Station.
I myself have noted that the train halts at Caranzol Stn and have read in other blogs that it halts at Sonalium Station.

7) What is the time taken to Trek from Castle Rock to Dudhsagar?
Ans: 6 to 7 hrs

8) Is this trek illegal?
Ans: NO.(atleast at the time of writing this blog)

9) Is carrying a torch mandatory?
Ans: Yes.
Without a torch, you are blind inside a tunnel and it becomes unsafe.

10) What about leeches and other insects?
Ans: Leeches and other insects or reptiles are a part and parcel of trekking.
Make sure you carry salt.

11) Will I get lost on the way?
Ans: Not at all.
Just follow the railway tracks and you will reach your destination.

12) How do I know the distance I have trekked?
Ans: At the sides of the tracks, there are marking boards from which you can calculate the distance.
For eg: At Castle Rock you will find the marking 25/100.
Hence mark this as your starting point.
Caranzol Station is marked at 31/000.
This means from Castle Rock to Caranzol, the distance is 5 kms and 900 mts.

13) What first-aid do i need to carry?
Ans: Carry the regular medicines which you need to take.
In addition to that, carry band-aids, painkiller tablets, tablets for diarrhea/loose motions and an antiseptic cream.